A Marwari bride is the quintessential Indian dulhan. She takes care of every detail, however small, that will make her look breathtakingly beautiful on her special day. She is also the one to make sure that her trousseau—an exciting part of wedding planning for every bride—is perfect. But will the Marwari wedding be as grand as usual this season, given the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic? And what about her bridal trousseau? Will that be just as exciting as every other year?
Popular designer and couturier, Payal Jain, notes, “The big fat Indian wedding has been far from our thoughts and imagination for some time now, social distancing and small gatherings being the norm of the day. However, it is not stopping people from enjoying their special day or celebrating with those who truly matter. The gatherings may be more intimate, but the joy and excitement, family festivities and celebrations that surround every Indian wedding remain perfectly intact. It’s time to reinvent and reorient ourselves and live in the moment.”
Thankfully, since fashion and festivities are here to stay, let’s find out what brides can look forward to this wedding season.
While most brides prefer to play safe on the wedding day, all the fun experiments usually happen at pre-wedding functions, like mehendi, sangeet, cocktail, etc.
Speaking about the hottest bridal trends in Western wear, Shivani Poddar, Cofounder, Indya and FabAlley, says, “From curve-caressing shimmery slips to maxi dresses, cocktail wear is all about metallic prints, shining in sequined dresses and bringing the disco days back. Dramatic and attention-grabbing sleeves, right from bell-shaped and extra-long ones to balloons and bishops, are in.” She also notes that the classic little black dress (LBD), slinky gowns and off-shoulder ensembles are fun and flirty styles to pick.
Coming to fusion wear, Poddar says, “Saris get a modern iteration in the form of maxi skirts, jumpsuits and draped dresses, smoothly amalgamating convenience with style this season. Tailored with alluring cuts and contemporary details, these re-imagined pre-draped cocktail saris bring in a sense of ease to the traditional six yards to help you breeze through the festivities.” She further shares that festive-meets-functional with today’s genre-bending and statement making jumpsuits. Think jumpsuits with attached capes, sari drapes, or simply with mesmerising traditional prints, motifs and embroideries. What’s more, from tunics with attached dupattas and cowl hemlines to wispy flowing layers, this season is all about dreamy, easy and fluid drapes.
For those who like to keep it elegant, Payal Jain shares, “The colours this season are light, cool and breezy, with less embellishment and glitz. Classic heirlooms are being pulled out and reinvented to the taste of the bride and the groom. Outfits and jewellery are being created and curated in sync with family values and traditions, which have been revived all over again. Classic crafts and textiles are being sculpted into timeless, yet contemporary silhouettes, befitting the mood of the occasion. Exquisitely handcrafted chikankari is being reinvented also in pastel and monochrome hues and styled into long kurta kaftans, panelled skirts, jumpsuits and more, and embellished with delicate mirror work, bugle beads and a sprinkling of pearls and sequins. But, true to our vast and varied Indian heritage, fabrics remain rich, resplendent, natural and breezy.”
Talking about Indian bridal wear trends, Adarsh Makharia from Osaa by Adarsh says, “For a Marwari bride, a traditional lehenga in shades of red is a popular choice. However, today’s brides also like to experiment with motifs, colours, etc., to give the outfit a slightly modern touch. They like to pair a traditional outfit with a contrasting dupatta, giving it a contemporary yet classic look. Some brides also like to opt for pastel hues, while keeping the final look traditional. Of course, the silhouettes remain the same.” Makharia further shares that the current buying pattern could be a mindful one, which will draw people closer to Indian crafts and culture.
What is a Marwari bride without some breathtaking jewellery! Talking about current favourites, Pawan Gupta, Vice Chairman, PP Jewellers, says, “This wedding season, bridal jewellery will further strengthen its position over trousseau, given its preciousness and heirloom value. For the wedding, jadau will be a favourite amongst brides.”
Talking about each ornament specifically, Gupta shares that the matha patti or maang tika in uncut diamonds and pearls is going to be popular, along with a large, prominent nath in pearls or emeralds. Bold chokers are back too. Layering will also be popular. For brides who love gold, the eternal antique gold jewellery will be their best bet. He adds, “Diamonds will dominate the reception and cocktail looks. Think of diamond necklaces, along with diamond ear cuffs, or earrings in asymmetrical designs.”
Abhishek Kajaria, Founder and Owner, Avama Jewellers by Abhishek Kajaria, says, “Statement chokers in polki and navratna stones are back. Polki sets are must-haves for trousseaus and a worthy investment too, given their heirloom value. There is a piece of polki jewellery typical of every community. For instance, Marwari brides prefer stiff necklaces, paired with a longer haar. Designs highlighting traditional floral motifs are also popular this season. According to him, the ongoing pandemic has not affected the budget for wedding jewellery much, as people, aware of rising prices, are making purchases for ‘at home’ weddings. Interestingly, the industry is witnessing a surge in people exchanging old gold jewellery for newer pieces. They are also pre-booking jewellery, anticipating a price rise during the festive season.
Today’s bride loves her shoes and accessories as much as she loves her lehenga and choker. According to Shilpa Agarwalla, Founder, ShilpSutra, current bridal shoe trends are all about going bright and colourful, with embellishments as highlights. Most brides prefer to colour-coordinate their outfits with their shoes. However, with evolving trends, brides are getting increasingly experimental with shoes, and don’t mind opting for bright contrasts. “Tie-up embellished heels, bows and tassels are being used to decorate shoes,” Agarwalla says. “There’s also a demand for my personal favourites—the classic embroidered jutti. Pair it with a lehenga, or kurti set, or even with denims; it just blends with the look—like it was always a part of it,” she adds.
Just as the saying goes that all good things come in small packages, so does your not-so-humble bridal bag or clutch. Devina Kejriwal-Juneja, the owner of the brand Devina Juneja, says, “Occasion bags are getting surprisingly smaller and sleeker, given the size of today’s mobile phones. Metallic shades, as well as colours, such as forest green, midnight blue and burgundy, are trending. Apart from beadwork and embroidery, nowadays you can also find bags in bolder colours with croc and faux reptile effects, having sleek metalwork or jewelled clasps on them.”
Thus, even though the big fat Indian wedding and the trousseau may have been redefined to some extent this season, the glitz and glamour and fun and festivities remain more or less unchanged.