He is the pride of Jodhpur-a luminary in luxury bespoke fashion in Indian couture, with unparalleled design prowess and creative energy. Meet Raghavendra Rathore, the designer extraordinaire whose menswear label is the mecca of Jodhpuri bandhgala, that has captivated sartorial enthusiasts and finds its place among the wardrobes of discerning clients worldwide.
Raghavendra Rathore is intrinsically inspired by the aesthetics bestowed upon him by his rich cultural inheritance. The quintessential designer creates a holistic vision of luxury enthused by the oldworld idea of design. His designs are a blend of rustic simplicity and classic panache that create a synergy of tradition and modern chic. The driving force behind India’s most coveted menswear couture label Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur for three decades, he has dressed royalties and created wardrobes for the who’s who of India.
Rathore's iconic couture store located in Mumbai is a testament to his unrivalled genius and creative finesse. The offerings comprise of classic clothing for all occasions, casual wear, and a new range of men’s jewellery, launched by actor and Nawab of Pataudi, Saif Ali Khan. Walk into the store and a designated designer will be at hand to offer a solution for your bespoke styles-in tandem with the other ateliers in Taj Mahal Hotel, Mumbai and Delhi. With his couture brand and other projects encompassing design, technology and philanthropy, the designer divides his time between bustling metropolises and his native town Jodhpur.
A regally steeped lineage
Born in October 1967, Raghavendra Rathore is a descendant of Rao Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur. He is the grandson of Maharaja Sawai Mansingh’s (Maharaja of Jaipur) sister, the cousin brother of Maharaja Gaj Singh of Jodhpur and related to Maharani Gayatri Devi. His early years in Jodhpur nurtured his creativity and aesthetic sensibilities. "Growing up in Jodhpur, my childhood was imbued with a rich tapestry of traditions, values, and a sense of responsibility that I hold dear to this day. My surroundings were filled with intricate art, age-old architecture, and the timeless beauty of our culture-all of which shaped my aesthetic sensibilities and my brand," affirms the designer whose artistic brilliance shines through his creative expressions.
With a humble beginning at Mayo College in Ajmer, Rathore delved into the depths of liberal arts at Hampshire College in Massachusetts. A curriculum in Renaissance Arts at Marlboro College in Vermont helped him find his true calling-design. Graduating from the Parsons School of Design in New York in 1992, he was ready to conquer the world.
His professional career started with assisting the queen of Seventh Avenue, Donna Karan, on her iconic DKNY label, before he moved on to creating legendary masterpieces for the house of Pierre Balmain at the revered ateliers of Oscar de la Renta in Paris. "My formative education and training shaped my understanding of design and its potential. With its multicultural essence and relentless pace, New York offered a unique perspective into the mechanics of a multinational fashion brand. It was an immersion into a world where fashion was more than mere clothing-it was a lifestyle, a philosophy," he elaborates.
He further adds, "Fashion was not always part of my initial dreams. It was the environment, the values, and empathy nurtured in me from a young age that slowly steered me towards this path. I discovered that through fashion, I could tell our unique stories, uphold our magnificent heritage, and contribute to the welfare of our local communities."
His time between Paris and New York formed the pillars for the creation of his own brand. In 1994, he returned to his ancestral homeland of Jodhpur and started his tailored womenswear label, and a decade later he established the eponymous brand 'Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur' with a cultural legacy that provides a global platform to Indian sartorial styles. "The most profound lesson I brought back to India was that fashion is more than just clothes; it is about creating a trusted brand built on authenticity, quality, and a consistent aesthetic. That’s what truly resonates with people. This principle has been the guiding light in my design journey."
The bandhgala goes global
The ‘Rathore Look’-a blend of regal flamboyance and understated class-transcends cultural boundaries. "The regal look is here to stay for those who truly understand elegant style," says Rathore of his classic Jodhpuri bandhgala cuts and other designs. The couturier has made this custom-made attire an iconic masterpiece, one that led to his name being inked into the pages of Indian fashion history. "The Jodhpuri bandhgala jacket is the cornerstone of our brand-a classic representation of Jodhpur’s royal heritage, tailored for clients around the world. Each jacket, characterised by a closed neck collar and a structured silhouette, embodies a fusion of heritage and modernity. Keeping the roots of the design intact, the jacket is often updated with contemporary cuts, high-quality fabrics, and elegant detailing. We personalise the bandhgala to fit the client in terms of physical dimensions and their personality," he tells. It projects a sense of regal grandeur while making it an expression of the wearer’s taste and style. It is this combination of elegance, personalisation and adaptability that has helped Rathore garner a diverse clientele and leave a mark on global fashion.
The bandhgala traces its origins to the royal courts of Rajasthan. A symbol of nobility and privilege, the ceremonial attire stood for elegance and stature. Over time, its relevance has expanded far beyond the courtly confines, becoming a sartorial symbol of Indian heritage in the global fashion landscape. "It evokes an immense sense of pride, and brings along substantial responsibility. We took a decision a few years ago to copyright the classic bandhgala pattern. It was driven by a sense of duty, rather than proprietorship. Our aim was to preserve the authenticity of this timeless design and provide a tangible reference point for future generations of designers. This way, they can draw upon this classic, yet continue to innovate and bring their unique perspectives into the ever-evolving tapestry of the garment in context to the Indian fashion Industry."
A nuanced blend of tradition with the demands of the modern world has made the bandhgala relevant in contemporary times. Explaining the timeless appeal of the cherished piece of art, he says, "The classic bandhgala is rejuvenated every season by reimagining it in various contexts-from the glitz of Bollywood to a private soiree in Monaco. The objective is to present it as a versatile piece of fashion that transcends geographical and cultural boundaries. We continuously explore advances in fabric technology to keep our designs in tune with the present without losing touch with their traditional roots. With this, we ensure that our heritageinfused pieces are not just relics of the past but serve as functional, fashionable garments that resonate with the modern consumer’s sensibilities. This delicate balance of the old and the new is intrinsic to the DNA of our brand."
The greatest moment in his fashion journey harks back to the rediscovery of traditional Indian stitching techniques. "It served as the genesis for our iconic bandhgala jacket, an epitome of sartorial elegance deeply rooted in our heritage. The acceptance of this fashion insignia in the metropolitan landscapes during the early ’80s brought immense gratification, signalling that our designs had resonated with the contemporary urban populace. It was an affirmation that our commitment to infusing modern fashion with traditional craft had a significant place in the larger narrative." This marked a pivotal point in the label’s evolution that has been unfolding beautifully over the last three decades.
A homage to the heritage
With an illustrious lineage that spans over 800 years, Rathore draws creative inspiration from his rich heritage and culture, infusing his work with an unmistakable sense of grace and timelessness. "We feed deeply from the wellspring of Indian culture. With each season, we delve into the treasure trove of traditional designs, oldworld charm, and the meticulous techniques passed down through generations. It is this profound connection to the past that helps us create designs that are resonant, not just aesthetically, but emotionally as well," he affirms.
Raghavendra Rathore Jodhpur has a commitment to reviving, preserving, and promoting traditional Indian crafts and techniques. Placing significant emphasis on working closely with the local communities, the design house collaborates with local artisans, helping to maintain traditional skills and providing stable employment opportunities in the region. "We believe that true luxury is handmade and that it is these artisans’ skills that breathe life into our creations. By involving these communities in the creation of our products, we celebrate their timeless skills, while contributing to their socio-economic upliftment."
He adds, "We work around the bespoke model of ‘personalised luxury’, wherein every piece is uniquely crafted for each client, and this has positioned us as one of the leading advocates for sustainability in the Asian fashion industry. We ensure no unnecessary production or inventory build-up, reducing waste and environmental impact. Our vision extends beyond fashion. It aims to project the elegance of Indian culture and heritage onto a global stage, also driving a sustainable approach to luxury fashion."
Dressing up royalties
Rathore is known for designing for royalties and distinguished figures like the Maharaja of Jaipur Sawai Padmanabh Singh, Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal Manujendra Shah, the Middle Eastern royalty, Saif Ali Khan and Amitabh Bachchan. He believes that crafting a bespoke outfit for these individuals is more than just the clothes-it is about capturing their essence in fabric and design. It is a rewarding experience for him to see his creations come alive and become a part of their narrative. "The fascinating aspect of designing for them is that they possess a unique style and charisma that requires a distinctive approach. This necessitates a deep understanding of their personalities, preferences, and lifestyles to create bespoke pieces that reflect their distinctiveness. When they carry off these outfits with effortless grace, it further validates the harmony between their individual style and our craftsmanship," says the fashion expert who has designed costumes for films such as Oh My God, Eklavya, and Khoobsurat, and Hollywood films like The Gray Man.
Beyond fashion and luxury, Rathore leaves an everlasting mark on the lifestyle industry. His design talent can be witnessed as the breathtaking lobby of Suryagarh, one of India’s most exclusive luxury heritage hotels; and the ‘Proud to be Indian’ collection of couture floor offerings. His dedication to India’s cultural heritage is evident in his recent gesture of designing outfits for the Border Security Force (BSF).
In this new era of ‘selfie culture’, personalisation is prominent in the couture industry and this aligns with slow luxury. Discussing the future of haute couture, he says, "I envision the future to lean further into bespoke clothing, made possible by advancements in technology. As we integrate artificial intelligence (AI) into fashion, we will offer an even higher degree of personalisation. AI can help us understand individual preferences, enabling us to create pieces that are not just luxurious but also deeply personal. The future will be marked by a greater interplay of personalised design and innovative technology, while upholding the values of craftsmanship and quality."
Dressing up royalties
Rathore is known for designing for royalties and distinguished figures like the Maharaja of Jaipur Sawai Padmanabh Singh, Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal Manujendra Shah, the Middle Eastern royalty, Saif Ali Khan and Amitabh Bachchan. He believes that crafting a bespoke outfit for these individuals is more than just the clothes-it is about capturing their essence in fabric and design. It is a rewarding experience for him to see his creations come alive and become a part of their narrative. "The fascinating aspect of designing for them is that they possess a unique style and charisma that requires a distinctive approach. This necessitates a deep understanding of their personalities, preferences, and lifestyles to create bespoke pieces that reflect their distinctiveness. When they carry off these outfits with effortless grace, it further validates the harmony between their individual style and our craftsmanship," says the fashion expert who has designed costumes for films such as Oh My God, Eklavya, and Khoobsurat, and Hollywood films like The Gray Man.
The ethos of philanthropy
Besides creating a successful fashion label, Rathore’s focus is to amalgamate the process with philanthropy. He believes that entrepreneurial spirit should extend beyond fashion into realms that can make an impact on society. This vision led to the establishment of the Raghavendra Rathore Foundation, a testament to his commitment to using creativity and innovation for social good. "I set personal goals to generate novel ideas and secure a few patents every few years, not confined to fashion alone. The intent is to create innovations that can contribute to humanity at large." He adds, "Our goal is to regulate the authentic narrative of the brand and foster a space for emerging talent, innovation, and cultural preservation. We aspire to create a holistic ecosystem that respects tradition while embracing the new," concludes the designer who was honoured with the Chief Minister's award for excellence for his contribution to global fashion in 2012 by the Government of Rajasthan.
That’s Raghavendra Rathore, the designer who immerses himself in a realm of diverse passions including horseback riding-a deeply ingrained ancestral heritage-classical music and the collection of rare vintage watches. An unrelenting pursuit of excellence and reinvention.
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